Author:

  • mtr on Linux: My honest take from the terminal

    Quick outline:

    • Why I reach for mtr
    • Real tests I ran (with copy-paste output)
    • What I love, what I don’t
    • Tips and little gotchas
    • My final take

    Why I keep mtr open on my second monitor

    I use Linux every day. I work from home. My Wi-Fi is “fine” until it isn’t. You know what? When stuff starts to lag, I open mtr. It blends ping and traceroute, so I watch the path, live, hop by hop. It’s simple, but it tells me a lot fast—latency, loss, jitter. That mix helps me talk to my ISP without guessing.

    I run mtr on Ubuntu 22.04 most days. Sometimes Fedora on my travel laptop. Same story either way.
    For a deeper, distribution-agnostic walkthrough straight from the enterprise world, check out Red Hat’s clear explainer on using mtr here.
    For more Linux-centric networking insights, you can swing by Freedom Penguin, whose guides pair nicely with mtr's no-nonsense output.
    If you’d like an even deeper dive, Freedom Penguin also has an excellent, step-by-step write-up in their dedicated mtr-on-Linux guide that parallels many of the real-world scenarios I cover below.

    Real day, real test: Is it me or the net?

    Last month, my kid was streaming soccer while I was pushing a build. The internet felt sticky. Pages took a beat. I ran this from my kitchen table:

    Command I ran:

    sudo mtr -rw -b -c 100 1.1.1.1
    

    What I saw (trimmed, but true to the feel):

    Start: 2025-07-18T09:12:43
    HOST: kayla-laptop (192.168.1.23)
      Loss%   Snt   Last   Avg  Best  Wrst StDev
      1.|-- router.lan (192.168.1.1)      0.0%   100   1.1   0.9   0.4   3.2   0.4
      2.|-- 10.208.0.1                     0.0%   100  11.8  11.6   9.3  22.7   2.1
      3.|-- 96.34.12.1                     0.0%   100  13.9  14.8  10.9  31.5   3.7
      4.|-- 72.14.213.162                  1.0%   100  18.3  19.5  15.9  45.8   5.6
      5.|-- one.one.one.one (1.1.1.1)      2.0%   100  19.2  19.0  16.3  42.2   3.1
    

    What it meant: my router was fine. The bump hit past my house. And the last hop had 2% loss. That told me it wasn’t just a “busy router ignores pings” thing. It was felt end-to-end.

    I called my ISP. I read off the last line and Avg/Wrst numbers. They took me seriously. That part felt good.

    Small note: if you ever see 30% loss on hop 3, but 0% loss on the last hop, don’t panic. Some routers rate-limit ICMP. If the final host is clean, your path is good.

    Zoom meltdown? I checked the real path (TCP)

    ICMP can look fine, but my video still glitches. So sometimes I test the same path with TCP to port 443. That matches how web and Zoom traffic flows.

    Command I ran during a choppy stand-up:

    sudo mtr -T -P 443 -c 50 -i 0.2 zoom.us
    

    Result (short and sweet):

    Start: 2025-08-02T08:31:05
    HOST: kayla-laptop
      Loss%   Snt   Last   Avg  Best  Wrst StDev
      1.|-- router.lan (192.168.1.1)      0.0%    50   0.8   0.9   0.5   2.6   0.3
      2.|-- 10.208.0.1                     0.0%    50  10.4  10.9   8.9  19.5   1.8
      3.|-- 96.34.12.1                     0.0%    50  12.1  12.6   9.8  21.1   2.2
      4.|-- 18.67.16.54                    0.0%    50  18.2  18.4  15.7  27.4   2.1
      5.|-- zoom.us                        0.0%    50  18.7  18.5  16.3  26.3   1.9
    

    Zero loss to the last hop. So the path was fine. My Wi-Fi channel was crowded. I switched to a 5 GHz SSID and the stutter stopped. Not magic—just proof.

    A quick IPv6 check, because it matters now

    Some sites pick IPv6 first. I don’t like guessing. So I test both.

    Command:

    sudo mtr -6 -r -c 50 -b google.com
    

    Sample result:

    Start: 2025-09-10T17:44:12
    HOST: kayla-laptop
      Loss%   Snt   Last   Avg  Best  Wrst StDev
      1.|-- router.lan (fe80::1)           0.0%    50   1.0   0.9   0.4   2.1   0.3
      2.|-- 2601:1c2:300:abcd::1           0.0%    50  11.1  11.3   9.2  18.7   1.7
      3.|-- 2001:4860:0:1::1               0.0%    50  13.8  14.1  10.7  22.5   2.5
      4.|-- google.com                     0.0%    50  15.6  15.4  12.9  21.9   1.8
    

    Clean. Fast. Done.

    The parts I love

    • It’s live. I see spikes as they happen.
    • Report mode makes clean proof for tickets. I use -r and -w.
    • I like -b. Names and IPs, both. No guessing.
    • TCP mode (-T -P 443) saves me when ICMP looks odd.
    • It’s on every Linux box I touch. Servers, too.

    The parts that bug me (a little)

    • Permissions can be weird. On some boxes I need sudo. On others, the package has the right caps set. I test both.
    • Some routers hide or throttle ICMP. That can look scary. It’s not always real loss.
    • The curses view is handy, but the hotkeys aren’t obvious. I had to Google them the first time.
    • Output columns take a minute to “click” if you’re new.

    My go-to commands (that I actually use)

    • Quick live check, no DNS delay:

      mtr -n 8.8.8.8
      
    • Solid proof with wide report:

      mtr -rw -b -c 100 1.1.1.1
      
    • Faster sampling for short tests (bursty, but handy):

      mtr -r -c 200 -i 0.2 -b example.com
      
    • Force IPv4 or IPv6:

      mtr -4 -r -c 50 -b example.com
      mtr -6 -r -c 50 -b example.com
      
    • Match app traffic with TCP to 443:

      mtr -T -P 443 -r -c 60 -b yoursite.com
      
    • Stick to one interface (when I have VLANs or a USB NIC):

      mtr -a 192.168.50.20 -r -c 50 -b example.com
      

    Of course, you’re not limited to testing work tools—content-heavy, graphics-rich sites can expose totally different latency patterns. One example is Plan Sexe where the dense media and interactive elements give you a perfect target to see how your connection behaves under real-world, high-throughput conditions. Likewise, region-specific classifieds sites that are image-heavy and update in near real-time can flood your connection with lots of tiny HTTP requests.

  • The Laptops I Actually Use With Kali Linux

    Hey, I’m Kayla. I break and fix things for work, but only where it’s allowed. I spend a lot of time with Kali Linux. I’ve tried it on more laptops than I want to admit. Some were great. Some were loud little space heaters.

    Here’s what stuck with me, with real stuff I ran into on the road, in a cafe, and on a red-team week where I lived on cold brew and trail mix. You know what? Little things matter—like which Wi-Fi chip is inside or if the fan screams during a Zoom. If you’re hungry for even more Linux-focused hardware tales, the crew over at Freedom Penguin has a stash of deep-dive reviews worth bookmarking. That includes my own write-up on the laptops I actually use with Kali Linux, if you want still more nitty-gritty.

    What I’m Covering (quick and simple)

    • My daily driver: ThinkPad X1 Carbon (Gen 9)
    • My fix-it toy: Framework Laptop 13 (12th Gen)
    • Pretty but fussy: Dell XPS 13 (9310)
    • Muscle machine: ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2021)
    • Cheap champ: ThinkPad T480 (used)

    I also share what to look for if you’re shopping.


    ThinkPad X1 Carbon Gen 9 — My “it just works” pick

    I’ve hauled this thing through TSA, client sites, and coffee shops that smell like cinnamon and printer ink. Kali booted from a USB stick on the first try. Install was simple. No drama.

    • Wi-Fi: Intel AX201 worked right away. No hunting for drivers.
    • Ports: Not many, but USB-C plus a small hub kept me fine.
    • Battery: I see 7–8 hours with notes, terminals, and a light web load.
    • Keyboard: Typing feels real and steady. I love the little red nub.
    • Screen: Bright enough for a window seat. Matte. No glare war.

    What went wrong? Two things. The speakers popped after sleep a few times until I updated the kernel. Also, the fingerprint reader didn’t work for me in Kali. I didn’t need it, so I let it be.

    One night, I used an Alfa AWUS036ACM over USB-C for a wireless lab. Plugged in. Blinked. Done. No hoops. That’s why I grab this one for travel. Quiet. Grown-up. Boring in a good way.

    Framework Laptop 13 (12th Gen) — The tinkerer’s sweetheart

    I built mine like a Lego kit: i5, 32 GB RAM, 1 TB NVMe, Intel AX210 Wi-Fi. I picked two USB-A modules, one USB-C, and one HDMI. I swapped parts on my coffee table with a tiny screwdriver and a cat watching. Fun.

    Kali installed clean. Wi-Fi worked right away. I did a test with a USB Wi-Fi adapter and passed it through a VM too. No weird dropouts. The fan did ramp when I ran heavy tasks, but it cooled fast.

    • Good: Fixable, upgradable, and friendly docs baked in the box.
    • Battery: Around 6 hours with a normal day. Less under load.
    • Quirk: The screen can wobble a hair on a bumpy train. Not a huge deal.

    Why I keep it: field repairs. If a port goes bad or I need more storage that day, I can swap a module in minutes. That saved my butt once during a workshop when a student cable bent my port. I just switched modules and kept going.

    Dell XPS 13 (9310) — Cute, but a bit high-maintenance

    I wanted this to be perfect. So thin. So pretty. But the Wi-Fi card was a hassle. The unit I bought came with a Killer card that gave me flaky drops. I replaced it with an Intel 9260, and then things felt normal.

    • Good: Great screen. Nice trackpad. Light in a backpack.
    • Okay: Runs warm near the hinge with longer jobs.
    • Quirk: I had to poke at brightness keys after install. Easy fix, but still.

    On a client week, the fan spin got old in quiet rooms. I ended up using it more as a Windows host with Kali in a VM for that trip. It worked, but I reached for my ThinkPad after that.

    ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2021) — Big power, big fan

    When I need raw power, I pull the G14 from the shelf. It’s got a Ryzen 9 and an NVIDIA GPU. Kali runs well, and heavy tasks finish fast. But this thing is a gremlin for noise. The fan loves attention.

    • Screen: Fast and smooth. Great for long sessions.
    • Heat: It gets toasty. My lap tapped out after 20 minutes.
    • Battery: Four or five hours with care. Two or three if I push it.

    It’s great for lab days at a desk with a plug. Not my pick for a quiet meeting. Once, in a small conference room, it sounded like a tiny jet. Someone joked it might lift off. I laughed, but I switched laptops at lunch.

    ThinkPad T480 (used) — The budget legend

    My T480 is beat up and steady as a brick. i5, 24 GB RAM, a cheap NVMe, and a second battery. I got it used for almost nothing and cleaned the keyboard with cotton swabs and a podcast on.

    • Wi-Fi: Intel. Works right away.
    • Ports: Real ones! USB-A, HDMI, and a card slot.
    • Battery: Long. Swappable too.

    It’s heavier, sure. But for teaching, it’s perfect. I’ve imaged five of these for a class. Zero student tears. Everything worked. The kids were more excited about stickers anyway.

    Little things that matter more than you think

    • Wi-Fi card: Intel cards save time. Most work out of the box with Kali.
    • RAM: 16 GB is comfy. 32 GB helps if you run VMs.
    • Ports: At least one USB-A for common adapters. Dongle life gets old.
    • Screen: Matte if you work near windows. Your eyes will thank you.
    • Noise: If you meet in quiet rooms, avoid loud gaming fans.
    • BIOS bits: I sometimes switch off Secure Boot during install. Simple. If you bump into odd boot errors, skimming the Kali FAQ usually clears things up.
    • Troubleshoot the network: When latency gets weird, I spin up MTR to watch each hop and spot the culprit in seconds.
    • Recon on niche sites: When a pentest shifts toward web-app analysis, I like to read prior breakdowns of similar targets for reconnaissance—for example, this full review of SPDate’s code paths and security posture over at Is SPDate Legit? Full Review. It’s a handy primer that outlines session handling, payment tunnels, and possible injection points, giving you a cheat sheet before you pop open Burp Suite. Likewise, if a gig has you poking at regional classifieds clones, you can skim this teardown of the platform’s Hackensack branch over at Backpage Hackensack, which walks through post-submission flows, ad-moderation endpoints, and the quirky CAPTCHA logic you’ll need to account for.

    I also keep a tiny USB stick with a live Kali plus persistence. It saved me once when a hotel desk swap went sideways. Plug, boot, breathe.

    Quick picks

    • Best overall travel buddy: ThinkPad X1 Carbon (Gen 9)
    • Best for repair and upgrades: Framework Laptop 13 (12th Gen)
    • Best for heavy, desk-bound work: ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2021)
    • Best small and shiny (with a Wi-Fi swap): Dell XPS 13 (9310)
    • Best budget: ThinkPad T480 (used)

    So… which one do I reach for?

    On most days, I grab the X1 Carbon. It fades into the background and lets me think. When I want to tweak and tinker, the Framework comes out. For big jobs at a desk, the G14 makes short work of it. The T480 rides shotgun as a backup, covered in stickers and coffee stains. The XPS? It’s my “I feel fancy” laptop, as long as the Intel card’s inside.

    If you’re stuck choosing, start simple: get something with Intel Wi-Fi, 16 GB of RAM, and a calm fan. Your future self, sitting under a humming AC vent at 2 a.m., will be very happy.

    —Kayla

  • Docky for Linux: My Week With a Classic Dock

    I swore I didn’t need a dock. I had hotkeys. I had muscle memory. Then I tried Docky again, and well… now it sits at the bottom of my screen like a stubborn cat. Cute, helpful, and sometimes in the way.
    If you're curious about other classic Linux tools and workflows, check out the community stories over at Freedom Penguin for more deep dives.
    Want the quick technical low-down on what Docky can do? LinuxLinks has a solid overview of its launchers, docklets, and configuration options.

    My setup (so you know where I’m coming from)

    • ThinkPad T480, Intel graphics
    • Ubuntu 20.04 first, then Pop!_OS 22.04
    • Two monitors: a 24-inch main, and a smaller side screen
    • Docky at the bottom, in 2D mode, with intellihide

    If you’re hunting for hardware that plays nicely with Linux, I broke down the laptops I actually use with Kali Linux and why they made the cut.

    I pinned Firefox, VS Code, Files, Terminal, and Spotify. I also added a few docklets: Trash, Mounter, Battery, and Weather. Yes, I like little toys on my taskbar. Who doesn’t?

    What clicked right away

    Drag. Drop. Done. I could pull an app from the menu and stick it on Docky. Reorder with a quick swipe. No fuss. That part feels very Mac-like, in a good way.

    Intellihide worked fine for me. When a window hit the bottom edge, the dock slid out of view. When I hit the bottom with my mouse, it popped back up. Smooth enough. Not magic, but smooth.

    The docklets are simple, and they saved me time:

    • Trash: I dragged a photo in, changed my mind, and pulled it back out. Easy.
    • Mounter: Plugged a USB drive. Saw it in Docky. Clicked once, got my files. No hunting through settings.
    • Battery: Helped on a long train ride. I could glance down and see I had 22% left. That little icon made me plan better.
    • Weather: Cute, but touchy. It showed my city most days. Then one morning it refused to load. I removed it, added it back, and it behaved again. Classic.

    Real moments where Docky helped

    On Monday, I had a meeting and three things open: Firefox, Slack, and my notes. I pinned Slack to Docky and used the little dot to see it needed me. One click, back to the thread. I didn’t miss questions that way.

    On Wednesday, I compiled a small tool in VS Code. The CPU Monitor docklet spiked like a little heartbeat. It’s nerdy, but I liked watching it. It told me when the build was done, even before the ding.

    On Friday night, I edited holiday photos. I dumped a folder by mistake. The Trash docklet saved me from panic. I dragged the folder out and exhaled. That alone paid rent.

    Things that bugged me (and how I worked around them)

    Docky uses Mono. If that word means nothing to you, here’s the simple bit: it uses a helper that eats more memory than a tiny panel. On my laptop, Docky hovered around 80–110 MB of RAM. Not huge, not tiny. Plank feels lighter. But Plank has fewer toys. That heavier footprint is partly a legacy of its history—Docky was originally a sub-project of GNOME Do before it split off as its own application, a move highlighted in an old OMG! Ubuntu write-up.

    Multi-monitor got weird once. I dragged a window to the second screen, and Docky tried to stay on top when I didn’t ask. I switched to “Window Dodge” (intellihide is the friendlier name) and set Docky to the main display only. That fixed it.

    The Gmail docklet… oof. It feels stuck in time. It wants older sign-in tricks that I don’t love. I dropped it. I just use the web tab now.

    Also, themes. There are some nice looks, but they can flicker with newer GNOME updates. I stuck to 2D mode and the default theme. Stable is cute too.

    A tiny detour about Plank and Cairo Dock

    I tried Plank on the same machine. It’s lean. It looks neat. But I missed the handy docklets. Cairo Dock is the other big name. It’s wild and super flexible. But it felt busy to me, like a Swiss Army knife with too many blades. Docky sits in a sweet spot—simple with a few tricks.

    Small tips that saved me clicks

    • Use 2D mode. It’s calmer and uses less juice.
    • Turn on intellihide. Your windows get more space, and the dock stays friendly.
    • Keep docklets basic: Trash, Mounter, Battery. Weather if you’re patient.
    • Right-click on icons. There are quick actions. VS Code got “New Window,” which I use a lot.
    • Save a launcher: I dragged a custom script to the dock, made it executable, and now it’s a one-tap tool.

    If you’re more into web shortcuts than scripts, Docky can still help. You can drag a URL straight from your browser into the dock and turn it into a one-click bookmark—handy for everything from project dashboards to a bit of after-hours socialising. For example, this detailed Dirty Roulette review explains how the random video chat site works, what privacy controls it offers, and whether it’s worth pinning as a quick distraction on your dock. For something less random and more location-specific, check out **Backpage El Centro**—the guide walks you through today’s classifieds scene in El Centro, offers practical safety advice, and shows how to navigate modern alternatives now that the original Backpage is gone.

    Performance and little numbers

    On my T480, Docky felt smooth. No choppy mouse. CPU stayed quiet unless I went hard on builds. Memory, as I said, sat near 100 MB. For me, it’s fine. For a tiny netbook? Maybe not. When network hiccups crept in, having a launcher for MTR on Linux meant a single click to trace routes right from the terminal.

    It also needs desktop effects turned on. If your system turns off compositing, Docky won’t look right. On Ubuntu and Pop!_OS, I didn’t need to tweak anything.

    Who should use Docky?

    • New Linux users who want a dock that “just works”
    • Folks who like icons more than menus
    • People who want simple extras like Trash and Mounter
    • Anyone who misses the feel of a Mac dock, but lives on GNOME or Cinnamon

    Who should skip it?

    • If you want super low memory use: try Plank
    • If you want deep theming and complex widgets: try Cairo Dock
    • If you hate Mono or older packages: skip Docky

    One hiccup I didn’t expect

    I said I don’t need another dock. Yet I kept it. Why? Because small things add up. That Trash pull-back. That USB one-click mount. Those tiny dots under running apps. It sounds small. It didn’t feel small.

    The verdict

    Docky is old, sure. But it’s still friendly. It made my week a little easier. It’s not perfect. It can be fussy with weather, and it’s a bit heavier than Plank. Still, it’s warm software. You know what? I like warm.

    I’m keeping it on my main screen. At least for now. And if it bugs me again, I’ll flip back to Plank in a minute. That’s Linux. We get to pick our toys and change our minds.

    —Kayla Sox

  • Showing Hidden Files on Ubuntu: My Hands-On Review

    Quick outline

    • My setup and why I care
    • The fastest way: Files app (Nautilus)
    • The nerdy way: Terminal tricks that save time
    • A small detour: File pickers in apps
    • How to hide and unhide files
    • Little gotchas I learned the hard way
    • Who should use what
    • Final take

    My setup, my mess

    I use Ubuntu on my main laptop. I started on 22.04, and I’m on 24.04 now. I build little Python apps, write docs, and break things by accident. You know what? Hidden files saved me more than once. They also confused me at first.

    On Linux, files that start with a dot are hidden. They’re “dotfiles.” Think .bashrc, .gitconfig, .config, .cache. They’re not scary. They’re just tidy. If you want the official word, Ubuntu keeps a concise page on hiding and unhiding files.

    If you’re hungry for even more nitty-gritty Linux insights, check out the community articles over at Freedom Penguin.
    One of my favorite walk-throughs is this guide on showing hidden files on Ubuntu which pairs nicely with the tips below.

    The fastest way: Files app (Nautilus)

    I live in the Files app a lot. It’s called “Files,” but folks also say “Nautilus.” Same thing.

    • Press Ctrl + H. Boom—hidden stuff shows up.
    • Press Ctrl + H again to hide them.

    Real example: I’m in my Home folder. I hit Ctrl + H and see this jump out:

    • .bashrc
    • .profile
    • .ssh
    • .config
    • .cache
    • .local
    • .mozilla

    I needed my SSH key one morning. It was in .ssh/id_rsa. I forgot where it was. Ctrl + H saved me from a mini panic.

    There’s also a menu toggle. Click the three lines (top right), then check “Show Hidden Files.” It sticks for that window. It’s quick. It’s clean. No drama.

    Pros

    • It’s one key press.
    • Easy to explain to a new user.
    • Looks neat, even with many dotfiles.

    Cons

    • It can get busy if you show all files in Home.
    • It hides again in new windows sometimes, so I tap Ctrl + H a lot.

    Speaking of keeping the desktop tidy, I’ve also been tinkering with Docky for Linux, a classic dock that streamlines launching Nautilus and other apps alongside your hidden-file workflow.

    The nerdy way: Terminal tricks that save time

    Sometimes I don’t want the mouse. I just want a list and to move on. Here’s what I use most.

    Show all files, including hidden:

    ls -a
    

    A sample from my Home:

    .  ..  .bash_history  .bashrc  .cache  .config  .gitconfig  .local  Documents  Downloads
    

    Show with details (I like this for size and dates):

    ls -la
    

    Skip the “.” and “..” entries:

    ls -A
    

    List only hidden items in the current folder:

    ls -d .*
    

    Find hidden files in Home (just top level):

    find ~ -maxdepth 1 -name ".*"
    

    Peek in a common config folder:

    ls -la ~/.config
    

    Real example from last week: my VS Code settings were acting weird. I ran:

    cat ~/.config/Code/User/settings.json
    

    I found a typo. Fixed it fast.

    Pros

    • Very fast.
    • Easy to copy into notes or a bug report.
    • Works over SSH.

    Cons

    • Syntax slips are easy.
    • Spaces in file names can annoy you. Use quotes.

    And if you live in the terminal as much as I do, you might also appreciate this hands-on look at mtr on Linux for real-time network diagnostics.

    For a deeper dive that spans multiple distros, this comprehensive guide to viewing hidden files and folders on Linux covers both GUI and terminal approaches and is worth bookmarking.

    A small detour: File pickers in apps

    This one gets folks. In the “Open File” window from many apps, hidden stuff is hidden too. Press Ctrl + H there as well. It works the same way. I use it when I pick a .env file for a project.

    Also, in VS Code, hidden files may be filtered by settings. If a folder is hidden because of “files.exclude,” you can still open it with the file dialog, or tweak the setting.

    How to hide and unhide files

    On Linux, hiding is simple. Add a dot at the start of the name.

    Hide a file:

    mv notes.txt .notes.txt
    

    Unhide a file:

    mv .notes.txt notes.txt
    

    One time I had a folder called “work-junk.” I didn’t want it staring at me all day. I did:

    mv work-junk .work-junk
    

    Out of sight. Still there.

    Little gotchas I learned the hard way

    • Don’t edit .bashrc without a backup. I do this now:
      cp ~/.bashrc ~/.bashrc.bak
      
    • Some apps stash huge caches in ~/.cache. If you clean it, close apps first.
    • Snap and Flatpak make hidden folders too. You’ll see things like ~/.var or snap folders. Don’t worry; they’re normal.
    • Permissions matter. If you can’t open .ssh, check:
      chmod 700 ~/.ssh
      chmod 600 ~/.ssh/id_rsa
      
    • “Hidden” isn’t “secure.” It’s just not shown. If it’s sensitive, use real security.

    If you’re tucking away something more personal than a config file—say photos and chats from a spontaneous night out in Rennes—you’ll want to both hide the folder and, ideally, encrypt it as well. The city’s lively dating scene even has its own primer at Plan Cul Rennes where open-minded adults can arrange discreet meet-ups, so storing any related screenshots or messages inside a well-protected dot-folder can spare you some awkward moments down the road.

    Similarly, if your travels land you in Louisiana and you’re coordinating a last-minute rendezvous in Kenner, it pays to keep those DMs and meetup details under digital wraps. The local listings on Backpage Kenner showcase real-time personal ads and event spots, giving you a quick way to scope out potential connections before you head out while also reminding you which conversations belong in an encrypted, hidden directory rather than your main Documents folder.

    Who should use what

    • New to Ubuntu? Use Files and press Ctrl + H. It’s friendly.
    • Power user or remote work? Use ls -A and find. It’s fast and clear.
    • Mixed workflow? Use both. That’s me most days.

    Final take

    Showing hidden files on Ubuntu feels smooth now. Ctrl + H in Files is my quick toggle. ls -A in the terminal is my truth check. Both work well on 22.04 and 24.04. Small tip: don’t fear dotfiles. They’re like the wiring in your house. You don’t need to stare at them. But when you need them, you want the switch right there—and Ubuntu gives you that switch.

  • Changing My MAC Address on Linux: What Worked for Me

    Quick outline

    • Why I even change my MAC on Linux
    • The gear I used
    • Fast ways that worked (real commands)
    • What broke, and how I fixed it
    • How to make it stick on reboot
    • When I don’t change it
    • Final take

    Why I even bother

    I like privacy on public Wi-Fi. I also test networks for work. Some portals bind you to your device. Sometimes I need a clean slate. A fresh MAC helps.

    Am I hiding? No. I’m just careful, like wearing a hoodie in the rain. Also, a few hotels and coffee shops tie a session to your MAC. If the timer gets stuck, a new MAC can nudge it. Use this only where it’s allowed, please.

    When I occasionally check in on location-based classifieds, a fresh address keeps my hardware from being fingerprinted—take a look at Backpage Tyler to see how strongly geo-targeted listings can clue you in to the tracking stakes, and pick up a few practical pointers on staying discreet while you browse.

    If you're hungry for more Linux-centric tips beyond MAC shuffling, the no-nonsense guides on Freedom Penguin have helped me level up more than once.

    My setup (plain and simple)

    • Main laptop: ThinkPad T480, Intel Wi-Fi (Ubuntu 22.04 LTS)
    • Second box: Fedora 40 on a mini PC (Realtek Ethernet)
    • A Raspberry Pi 4 (Debian 12), headless, lives near my router
    • Networks: my home router, my phone hotspot, and a campus guest net

    If you’re shopping for a portable pentesting rig, check out the rundown of the laptops I actually use with Kali Linux—the notes on Wi-Fi chipsets alone can save you hours of driver hunting.

    I wrote these steps after I ran them. Coffee in hand. Dog snoring. Nice day.
    Sometimes, though, an endless debugging sprint demands more sustained energy than a mug of espresso can deliver; while looking for ways to stay sharp I stumbled across this detailed Choq® Testosterone Daily Booster review that breaks down the ingredients, claimed benefits, and real-world feedback—worth a read if you’re curious about natural focus and stamina aids.

    Fast wins that actually worked

    Here’s what worked for me, for real. I’ll show Wi-Fi first, then Ethernet.

    1) “ip” command (built-in, quick)

    This one is my go-to. It’s fast and doesn’t need extra tools.

    Wi-Fi on Ubuntu 22.04:

    • Find your device name:

      • ip link show
      • Mine was: wlan0 on the Pi, wlp2s0 on the ThinkPad
    • Down the interface:

      • sudo ip link set dev wlp2s0 down
    • Set a new MAC (use a locally administered one, start with 02):

      • sudo ip link set dev wlp2s0 address 02:11:22:33:44:55
    • Bring it up:

      • sudo ip link set dev wlp2s0 up
    • Check:

      • ip link show wlp2s0

    On Fedora for Ethernet (Realtek, name was enp3s0):

    • sudo ip link set dev enp3s0 down
    • sudo ip link set dev enp3s0 address 02:AA:BB:CC:DD:EE
    • sudo ip link set dev enp3s0 up
    • ip -br a | grep enp3s0

    It took me maybe 20 seconds. If NetworkManager flips it back, see the nmcli part below. That happened to me once after a suspend.

    2) macchanger (friendly and fun)

    I like macchanger when I want random, fast.

    On Ubuntu:

    • sudo apt install macchanger
    • Bring the device down:
      • sudo ip link set dev wlp2s0 down
    • Random MAC:
      • sudo macchanger -r wlp2s0
    • Or set a fixed one:
      • sudo macchanger -m 02:AB:CD:EF:12:34 wlp2s0
    • Bring it up:
      • sudo ip link set dev wlp2s0 up
    • See it:
      • macchanger -s wlp2s0

    On my Pi, “-r” gave me a fresh address every time. Handy for quick tests.

    If the syntax ever slips your mind, the succinct man-page style reference on the LinuxCommandLibrary’s macchanger manual is a quick way to jog your memory without scrolling through pages of unrelated output.

    3) NetworkManager (nmcli), per network

    This is great when I want the change each time I join a certain Wi-Fi. No extra scripts.

    • List connections:

      • nmcli connection show
    • For a saved Wi-Fi named Home Wi-Fi:

      • nmcli connection modify "Home Wi-Fi" 802-11-wireless.cloned-mac-address random
      • Then bounce the connection:
        • nmcli connection down "Home Wi-Fi"
        • nmcli connection up "Home Wi-Fi"
    • For a fixed MAC on Ethernet:

      • nmcli connection modify "Wired connection 1" 802-3-ethernet.cloned-mac-address 02:66:77:88:99:10
      • Then:
        • nmcli connection down "Wired connection 1"
        • nmcli connection up "Wired connection 1"

    Need to dive deeper into every knob you can tweak on the wired side? The upstream docs for NetworkManager 802-3 Ethernet settings lay out each property and what it actually does.

    Tip: If it doesn’t “take,” disconnect from the network first. Also check that you didn’t lock MAC in your driver or a udev rule. I did that once and felt silly.

    Real moments that sold me

    • Campus guest Wi-Fi: It stuck me on a broken session after lunch. I set a new MAC with ip, rejoined, and boom—portal showed up again.
    • Hotel that cached devices: My work laptop got the “already used” screen. I set a random MAC with macchanger and it let me start fresh. Later, I changed it back. I don’t mess with rules.
    • My Pi test bench: I cycle through MACs to test my DHCP pool. macchanger -r on wlan0, then watch my router hand out IPs. Simple and neat.

    While you’re poking at connections, remember that spoofing a MAC is only half the story; a quick run of MTR on Linux can pinpoint where the packets are really stalling.

    What broke (and how I fixed it)

    • It wouldn’t change while connected:

      • Fix: bring the interface down first. Then change the MAC. Then bring it up.
    • NetworkManager “snapped back” after resume:

      • Fix: set cloned-mac-address on the connection. That held steady across sleep.
    • Driver blocked it on Wi-Fi:

      • My Intel card is fine. A friend’s Broadcom was fussy. Some chips don’t like changes while the radio is on. Down the device, or try Ethernet.
    • Random MAC blocked by a portal:

      • Some captive portals have rules. I saw one that flagged random ranges. A fixed, locally administered MAC (starts with 02) passed.
    • Router locked by MAC filter:

      • My old Netgear had a allow-list. I forgot. The new MAC got no IP. Fix: add the new MAC to the router list, or change it back.

    Make it stick on reboot (when I need that)

    I don’t always want it to stick. But when I do:

    • With NetworkManager, per Wi-Fi:

      • nmcli connection modify "Cafe Wi-Fi" 802-11-wireless.cloned-mac-address random
    • For Ethernet:

      • nmcli connection modify "Wired connection 1" 802-3-ethernet.cloned-mac-address 02:DE:AD:BE:EF:01
    • With systemd-networkd on the Pi (wired):

      • In /etc/systemd/network/10-wired.network
        • [Link]
        • MACAddress=02:12:34:56:78:9A
      • Then:
        • sudo systemctl restart systemd-networkd
    • Old-school udev rule (works but I use it less now):

      • File: /etc/udev/rules.d/70-mac.rules
      • Line:
        • ACTION=="add", SUBSYSTEM=="net", KERNEL=="wlan0", RUN+="/usr/sbin/ip link set dev wlan0 address 02:FE:ED:FA:CE:01"

    Be careful with typos. I once broke my boot by misspelling the device name. Had to plug in a keyboard and fix it. Not my best morning.

    House rules I follow

    • I stick to networks I own or can use. No tricks.
    • I keep a note of my real MACs. Just in case I need warranty or vendor support.
    • I use “02:” at the start for a local MAC
  • I play MMORPGs on Linux. Here’s how it really goes.

    I game on Linux every day. I raid, I farm, I fish. I also break stuff, then fix it with coffee. People ask me, can you play big MMOs on Linux? Short answer: yes—many of them. But not all. And the small hiccups matter. And hey, recent data shows nearly 90% of Windows games now run on Linux, which still blows my mind.

    If you want an even nerdier blow-by-blow, I put together a separate rundown over on Freedom Penguin about playing MMORPGs on Linux.

    Let me explain what worked for me, what didn’t, and what made me grin like a kid at the loot screen.

    My setup (nothing wild)

    • Desktop: Ryzen 5 5600, Radeon RX 6700 XT, 32 GB RAM
    • Laptop: ThinkPad T14 (Ryzen 7 5850U), 16 GB RAM
    • Distros I used most: Fedora 40 and Pop!_OS 22.04
    • Tools: Steam with Proton 9, Proton-GE (community build), Lutris, Heroic Launcher
    • Handy extras: GameMode (boosts games), MangoHUD (shows FPS), DXVK/VKD3D (DirectX to Vulkan)

    I tried an older Nvidia card for a week. It ran. But the driver dance made me tired. AMD, for me, just felt simple. Updates landed. Games launched. Done.
    Meanwhile, I keep tabs on fresh Linux gaming tricks over at Freedom Penguin, a site that’s saved me from more than one late-night troubleshooting rabbit hole. And when I need a reminder that the same ThinkPad can moonlight as a hacker lab, I revisit Freedom Penguin’s guide to the laptops they actually use with Kali Linux.

    The quick take

    • If you play Final Fantasy XIV, Guild Wars 2, Albion Online, RuneScape, EVE, or WoW—you’re in good shape.
    • If you need Lost Ark or Black Desert Online—sorry. The anti-cheat says no.
    • If you enjoy tinkering, Linux is fun. If you hate tinkering, pick games that “just work.”

    You know what? I kind of like the tinkering. It’s like sanding a wobbly table. Annoying at first. Then it’s steady, and you feel proud.

    What ran great for me

    Final Fantasy XIV (Steam, Proton 9)

    This one shines. At 1440p on my RX 6700 XT, I saw 90–120 FPS out in the field. Limsa stayed around 70–80 FPS. Raids felt smooth, even with spell fireworks. On my laptop at 720p Medium, I got 50–60 FPS.
    One quirk: the launcher popped tiny the first time. I resized it and moved on. Controller support felt solid. Chat worked fine.

    Guild Wars 2 (Steam, Proton 9)

    Super easy. It just launched. Out in maps I got 60–100 FPS. Lion’s Arch dipped to 45–60. GW2 is a little CPU-bound, so big zergs still drop. But world bosses were a joy. I ran meta trains while dinner baked.

    Albion Online (Native Linux client)

    This was the chill one. It installed fast and ran clean. 120–144 FPS at 1440p. Load screens? Short. I did a few solo dungeons and forgot I was on Linux at all. That’s a compliment.

    RuneScape / Old School RuneScape (RuneLite on Linux)

    I used the RuneLite Flatpak. Login worked with my Jagex account. At 1080p I sat near 120 FPS on the desktop. Bossing nights felt smooth. Plugins loaded fine. Simple win.

    World of Warcraft (Lutris, DXVK)

    Yes, it plays. Mythic+ nights were steady at 90–120 FPS on High at 1440p. Raids held up. The Battle.net launcher took a minute on first boot. Cutscene audio desynced once; a restart fixed it. Weeklies got done, no drama.

    EVE Online (Steam, Proton 9)

    Space looked pretty. I got 120 FPS in quiet systems, and, of course, big fleet fights dipped hard. Time Dilation does its thing anyway. One patch day failed to start. I cleared the Proton prefix and it came back. Not fun, but not scary.

    What worked, but needed a tiny push

    The Elder Scrolls Online (Steam, Proton Experimental)

    On first run I got stuck at “Requesting login.” I switched to Proton Experimental and it signed in. After that, it was good. 70–90 FPS questing at 1440p. Big Cyrodiil fights dropped to the 40s. Add-ons lived in the Proton folder, which felt fiddly, but they worked.

    Star Wars: The Old Republic (Steam, Proton-GE)

    The default Proton gave me a launcher loop. Proton-GE fixed it. Story zones hit 100+ FPS. Fleet sat near 60. I heard sound crackle two times in four hours. A quick relaunch cleared it.

    What didn’t run (and why)

    Small things that surprised me

    • Fans stayed quieter on Linux for some games. FFXIV was a bit cooler than on Windows for me.
    • Patch days felt faster through Steam. ESO was the slow one—its launcher crawls. So I make tea.
    • Controller remaps in Steam Input saved me in GW2 gliding and in FFXIV fishing.
    • Windowed borderless was my safest bet. Fullscreen acted weird on one monitor.
    • I also cleaned up my desktop with Docky, the classic Linux dock, after reading this week-long hands-on with Docky for Linux; it keeps my taskbar uncluttered between raids.

    Real numbers I saw (just to ground it)

    • FFXIV: 90–120 FPS at 1440p High on RX 6700 XT; 50–60 FPS at 720p Medium on my laptop
    • GW2: 60–100 FPS in the wild; 45–60 in big hubs
    • Albion: 120–144 FPS at 1440p
    • WoW: 90–120 FPS at 1440p High; raids held steady
    • ESO: 70–90 FPS questing; 40s in big PvP
    • EVE: 120 FPS alone; big fleets drop a lot (expected)

    Note: FPS swings with zones, add-ons, and mood. Okay, not mood. But you get it.

    My go-to tweaks when stuff acts up

    • Try a different Proton: default, then Experimental, then Proton-GE.
    • Add “gamemoderun” to the launch line if your distro supports it.
    • Use MangoHUD to watch temps and FPS. It helps you spot spikes.
    • Check ProtonDB before you buy a new MMO. Saves your wallet.
    • Prefer AMD GPUs on Linux if you can. Less driver hassle.
    • Keep a tiny Windows SSD only if you need anti-cheat games. I keep one on a shelf.

    By the way, all those in-game whispers reminded me that solid text skills can carry you well beyond guild chat. If you ever want to turn your keyboard prowess into smooth, real-world flirting, this step-by-step resource is gold: SextLocal’s How-To guide — it walks you through crafting engaging opener lines, keeping the conversation respectful, and setting clear boundaries so your messaging game levels up as smoothly as your characters.

    A real-world template can help even more. If you’d like to see how a polished, attention-grabbing ad actually looks in practice, take a peek at Backpage Taylor’s profile — studying the layout, tone, and call-to-action there can spark ideas for crafting posts that stand out, whether you’re advertising an in-game event or writing a personal listing of your own.

    So, should you play MMOs on Linux?

    If your main games are FFXIV, GW2, Albion, RuneScape, EVE, or WoW—yes. It feels normal. Fun, even. I can raid, craft, and chat like anyone else. If your heart is set on Lost Ark or Black Desert Online, you may need a plan B.

    I’ll be honest. Linux gaming still has “jiggle the handle” moments. A launcher breaks.

  • My Hands-On Take: Video Game Emulators on Linux

    I’ve run emulators on Linux for years. On a ThinkPad, on a big desktop, and on a Steam Deck snuggled on the couch with my cat. Some nights felt magic. Some nights felt like drivers picked a fight with me. Here’s what actually worked for me, what didn’t, and what I still reach for when I just want to play.

    My setup (so you know where I’m coming from)

    • Desktop: Ryzen 5 5600, 32 GB RAM, AMD RX 6600, Fedora 40 (Wayland)
    • Laptop: ThinkPad T14 (AMD), Ubuntu 22.04 LTS
    • Handheld: Steam Deck (SteamOS, updated)
    • Controllers: 8BitDo Pro 2, Xbox One pad, DualSense

    If you’re curious about which Linux-friendly notebooks hold up for more specialized work, here’s a quick peek at the laptops I actually use with Kali Linux.

    I use Flatpaks when I can, since updates are simple. I use my own game dumps and, where needed, my own BIOS files. No gray stuff.


    RetroArch: The “one app to run them all” that I love… and also argue with

    RetroArch is a launcher with “cores” for many systems. On my Ubuntu laptop, I used SNES9x for SNES, Genesis Plus GX for Sega, and Beetle PSX HW for PS1. It’s great on paper. One front end. One set of shaders. One place to map buttons.

    And yet, the menu can feel like a maze. The Ozone theme helps, but still. I spent 15 minutes once trying to make my 8BitDo Pro 2 save a hotkey combo. It worked… then it didn’t… then it did. You know what? It’s powerful, but a little fussy.

    When it clicks though, wow. Super Mario World with a light CRT shader looked bright and clean on my ThinkPad. Sonic 2 ran smooth as butter. Save states felt instant. I like it best for 8-bit and 16-bit stuff, where it’s rock solid.

    What I liked:

    • Many systems in one place
    • Nice shaders for old games
    • Runs great on older hardware

    What bugged me:

    • Menus can confuse new folks
    • Controller mapping sometimes resets
    • Some cores need BIOS files, and that’s not always clear

    Dolphin: GameCube and Wii, the crown jewel

    Dolphin on Fedora with my RX 6600 is a dream. I used Vulkan. I set it to “Ubershaders (Hybrid)” to keep shader stutter low. Mario Kart Wii ran smooth with four players. No weird dips. My DualSense worked right away by choosing the “SDL” controller option.

    Wind Waker looked clean at 3x internal resolution. Sunshine too. Metroid Prime needed a bit more GPU love, but the game still felt sharp. I also tested a Mayflash DolphinBar for Wii remotes, and it worked fine in Mode 4.

    One hiccup: I saw random audio crackle on my Ubuntu laptop with PulseAudio. On Fedora with PipeWire, it was fine. Small thing, but I noticed.

    What I liked:

    • Vulkan feels fast and steady
    • Ubershaders cut down stutter
    • Great controller support

    What bugged me:

    • Audio crackle on one machine
    • A few games need tweaks per title

    DuckStation (PS1) vs PCSX2 (PS2): Two moods, same couch

    DuckStation is my chill PS1 pick. It’s simple, it’s fast, and it has a magic trick called PGXP. No need to know the tech. It just makes old 3D lines stop wobbling. Crash Bandicoot and Final Fantasy IX looked tidy and bright at 3x scale. One click, done. I use this when I just want to play.

    PCSX2 for PS2 is more… “let me tune a bit.” The new Qt build looks clean. Vulkan worked best for me. Ratchet & Clank and Jak II ran well on my desktop. God of War was smooth after I used the widescreen patch and a light speed hack. Shadow of the Colossus pushed my laptop though; it needed a lower resolution and a frame limiter tweak to feel right.

    What I liked:

    • DuckStation: fast and friendly
    • PCSX2: huge library, modern UI, Vulkan works well
    • Widescreen patches are awesome

    What bugged me:

    • PCSX2 sometimes needs per-game settings
    • Laptop struggled with heavy PS2 titles

    PPSSPP: PSP on Linux is pure comfort

    PPSSPP is bliss. Persona 3 Portable ran great at 2x scale on my ThinkPad. Patapon felt perfect with the 8BitDo Pro 2. I tried texture scaling and a light FXAA pass on my desktop, and it sharpened things without looking weird.

    Save states load fast. Control mapping is simple. And on Steam Deck? Flawless. I mapped L and R to the back paddles for Monster Hunter Freedom Unite, and my hands finally relaxed.

    What I liked:

    • Easy setup, clear menus
    • Runs well on weak hardware
    • Makes PSP games shine with scaling

    What bugged me:

    • Some filters can over-sharpen
    • A few rhythm-heavy games need exact frame pacing

    MAME and DOSBox: Old school, big grin

    I use MAME for arcade nights. Metal Slug, Street Fighter II, and The Simpsons Arcade all felt right with the Xbox pad. I had to tweak my button layout once, then I saved a profile. Done. The shaders in MAME are heavy, so I kept it simple.

    DOSBox is my cozy blanket. I ran the DOOM shareware on my Ubuntu box with cycles set to “auto” and audio at 44.1 kHz. It felt like my childhood PC, but without the noise. I also played Jazz Jackrabbit. That tiny green rabbit still has jump.

    What I liked:

    • Huge range of old games
    • Runs fine on almost anything
    • Simple config for common titles

    What bugged me:

    • Some ROM sets are messy to manage
    • MAME shaders can tank performance

    Switch and 3DS today: A quick note

    For Switch on Linux, Ryujinx ran okay on my desktop with Vulkan. Mario Kart 8 Deluxe felt good at a modest scale. On my laptop though, not so much. It’s hungry. I keep it for a few games and leave it at that.

    For 3DS, I used Citra back in the day. Now I use a community fork on Linux that works about the same. Pokémon X ran fine at 2x scale on my ThinkPad, but I had to map the C-stick to my right stick for camera control. It’s not hard; just a little fiddly.

    What I liked:

    • Ryujinx looks great on strong hardware
    • 3DS fork kept my old Citra habits alive

    What bugged me:

    • Both need decent CPUs and GPUs
    • Some titles stutter on weaker machines

    Steam Deck note: Handy, if you let it help you

    Steam Deck plus EmuDeck made setup easy for me. It set folders, hotkeys, and emulators for me. I still changed a few paths, but it saved hours. PPSSPP, DuckStation, and Dolphin ran smooth on Deck, with Dolphin at modest scaling and Ubershaders (Hybrid). I keep MangoHUD on to watch temps and frames. It helps me know when to lower settings, or when I can push them a bit.


    Controllers, Wayland, and those tiny gotchas

    • My 8BitDo Pro 2 works great over Bluetooth on Fedora. On Ubuntu once, I needed to re-pair after a firmware update. Annoying, but done.
    • DualSense is fine in Dolphin and PPSSPP with SDL drivers. Haptics aren’t always perfect. I don’t mind.
    • Wayland on Fedora gave me smoother frame pacing than X11 in most emulators. Screen capture apps can be picky, but games felt stable.
    • Flatpak builds are tidy, but remember to allow folder access. I had to grant a games directory once. Then RetroArch saw my library.

    The quick picks (when I don’t want to think)

    • SNES/Genesis: RetroArch cores (SNES9x, Genesis Plus GX)
    • PS1: DuckStation
    • PS2: PCSX2 (Vulkan, widescreen patches)
    • PSP: PPSSPP
    • GameCube/Wii: Dolphin (Vulkan, Hybrid Ubershaders)
    • Arcade: MAME
    • DOS: DOSBox
    • Switch: Ryujinx on desktop only
    • 3DS: A current Citra fork on Linux

    Final say: Linux emulation feels alive

    Linux surprised me. On my desktop, it’s smooth and strong. On my ThinkPad, I sometimes drop scales, but I still have fun. On the Steam Deck, it’s comfy and fast for the older stuff, and good enough for GameCube with care.
    If you’re hunting for more Linux-centric gaming wisdom, the folks over at Freedom Penguin publish practical tricks and deep dives that pair nicely with the tools I’ve mentioned. They’ve even covered what it’s

  • Setting the Time Zone on Ubuntu: My Real-World Review

    I travel a lot for work. Meetings, builds, and a few late-night deploys. So when my laptop shows the wrong time, I feel it right away. Missed a standup once because my clock was still on New York while I was already in Berlin. Not fun.

    If you’d rather skip the travel tales and just see the nuts-and-bolts steps, my concise walk-through on setting the time zone on Ubuntu lays everything out in order.

    Here’s how setting the time zone on Ubuntu felt for me—what worked, what was clunky, and the small tricks I now use without thinking.

    The easy way on Desktop (and one small catch)

    On Ubuntu Desktop, the Settings app is the chill path.

    • I go to: Settings → Date & Time.
    • I turn on “Automatic Time Zone.”
    • If I want a set city, I click the map and type “Chicago” or “Berlin.”

    It just works. But there’s a catch: I had to turn on Location Services for auto time zone. The first time, the switch did nothing until I enabled that. Also, the map felt a bit twitchy on my trackpad. Not a huge deal. Just a tiny sigh.

    By the way, any software that hinges on accurate geo-data—think ride-sharing, event check-ins, or modern dating apps—can stumble if your clock drifts even a few minutes. For a fun non-work example, Jaumo shows how a dating platform leans on precise time and location to surface matches right when you’re nearby; their overview breaks down how tighter sync boosts match relevance and keeps conversations flowing.
    If your night off finds you scrolling through local classifieds to line up a spur-of-the-moment meet-up in Pennsylvania’s Lehigh Valley, timing is every bit as crucial—Backpage Bethlehem catalogs fresh, time-stamped listings so a properly synchronized system clock helps you pounce on new posts before they disappear.

    Terminal way: fast, clear, and my go-to

    Most days, I use the terminal. It’s quick, and it sticks.

    • Check current time info:
      timedatectl status

    • Find your city:
      timedatectl list-timezones | grep -i berlin

    • Set it:
      sudo timedatectl set-timezone America/Los_Angeles

    I’ve set Europe/Berlin, Asia/Kolkata, and America/Chicago this way. It takes seconds. One note: you do need sudo. If you forget, it will complain. Fair.

    What I like here is the confidence. I run date after, and the time is right. Logs match. Cron behaves. Life feels tidy. If you want a deeper dive into how timedatectl works under the hood, this excellent article on Freedom Penguin breaks it down step-by-step. For an even more focused walkthrough on just adjusting the clock, my dedicated review on setting the time zone on Ubuntu might help.
    Ubuntu’s own documentation on synchronizing time with timedatectl and systemd-timesyncd explains every flag in detail and is well worth bookmarking for future reference.

    When timedatectl won’t run (hi, containers)

    In some containers, timedatectl won’t work, since systemd isn’t running. On those, I use this:

    • Text interface:
      sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata

    Then I pick the region and city. For example, I choose “Europe,” then “Berlin.” It prints what it set at the end. Clear as day.

    If I have no reconfigure tool, I do the manual link:

    • Link the zone file:
      sudo ln -sf /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/Berlin /etc/localtime

    • Save the name:
      echo "Europe/Berlin" | sudo tee /etc/timezone

    I’m careful with this one. A bad link means weird time. I learned that the hard way on a tiny test box. Clock went wild, logs got messy, and I had to fix it at 1 a.m. Not my best night.
    For an overview of alternative approaches—including the classic tzdata reconfiguration—the Ubuntu Community Help Wiki page on configuring time settings offers a concise and helpful summary.

    And if you ever need to reveal those dot-prefixed config files while you’re inside a container, this quick guide on showing hidden files on Ubuntu walks you through every option.

    Servers: my simple rule that saved me

    Here’s my rule now: I keep servers on UTC, and I let apps show local time.

    Why? Cron. I once switched a server from UTC to Eastern time, and a backup job shifted. It ran an hour late and bumped into a deploy. Now I either:

    • Keep the server on UTC, or
    • Set a job’s time zone in the crontab:

    TZ=America/New_York
    0 2 * * * /usr/local/bin/backup.sh

    Small change, big peace.

    Time sync also matters. On a fresh Ubuntu Server, I check:

    timedatectl status

    If I see “System clock synchronized: yes,” I relax. That means NTP is fine. If not, I restart time sync:

    sudo systemctl restart systemd-timesyncd

    Then I check again. Simple drumbeat.

    WSL and cloud VMs: tiny quirks

    On WSL (Ubuntu on Windows), the time zone sometimes shadows Windows. When it’s off, I just run:

    sudo timedatectl set-timezone America/New_York

    It sticks across sessions for me. If not, I repeat after a Windows update. No big deal.

    Because I bounce between hotel Wi-Fi networks so often, I occasionally spoof my network adapter’s identity as well; the steps I follow are outlined in this post on changing my MAC address on Linux.

    On cloud VMs, like on AWS or Azure, I set UTC first, then let apps handle local time. If a team asks for local time, I use timedatectl the same way as normal. Nothing special there.

    Real examples from my week

    • Monday, Boston → London: My laptop stayed on Eastern time. I opened Settings, typed “London,” done. Calendar lined up. Slack stopped yelling at me.
    • Tuesday, Docker build runner: timedatectl failed in the container. I ran dpkg-reconfigure tzdata, picked “Etc/UTC,” and builds became predictable again.
    • Thursday, home lab: Ubuntu Server on a small box. I set America/Chicago with timedatectl. I checked with date. Then I ran journalctl --since "10 minutes ago". The logs matched the clock. Sweet.

    What I liked

    • The GUI is clear and fast.
    • The terminal way is rock solid.
    • Listing time zones with grep feels clean and quick.

    What bugged me a bit

    • Auto time zone needs Location Services; that wasn’t obvious.
    • Containers can’t use timedatectl. I get why, but it tripped me once.
    • The map UI can be a little fussy on a trackpad.

    My bottom line

    Ubuntu makes time zones easy. On Desktop, I flip a switch and move on. On servers, timedatectl is my trusty tool. And when systemd isn’t there, dpkg-reconfigure tzdata does the job.

    Would I trust it for work? Yes. I do, every week. And you know what? When your clock is right, your day just runs smoother.

  • I Tried Viewing Serial Ports on Linux. Here’s What Actually Worked.

    I’m Kayla. I flash boards, watch boot logs, and plug in way too many USB dongles. I’ve used all the usual tools on Ubuntu, Fedora, and a Raspberry Pi. Some days it was smooth. Other days I stared at a blank screen and sighed.

    You want the short version? There’s a quick way, a stable way, and a “why is this broken” way. I’ve used all three.

    While researching this stuff, I found an especially helpful overview on Freedom Penguin that gave me a few extra tricks.

    If you’d like to dig even deeper into my serial-port rabbit hole, I turned the whole adventure into a standalone Freedom Penguin article: I Tried Viewing Serial Ports on Linux. Here’s What Actually Worked.


    First look: What serial ports do I even have?

    When I plug in a USB-to-serial adapter, I check these spots first. It takes seconds.

    I open a terminal and run:

    ls /dev/ttyUSB* /dev/ttyACM* 2>/dev/null
    

    On my laptop, with two adapters (an FTDI and a CH340), I saw:

    /dev/ttyUSB0  /dev/ttyUSB1
    

    Curious about the hardware I trust when I’m not just tinkering but doing offensive-security work? I break down my daily drivers in The Laptops I Actually Use with Kali Linux.

    I like to confirm with the kernel log. It tells me which is which:

    dmesg | grep -i tty
    

    Real output from my Ubuntu 22.04 box:

    [  542.108931] usb 1-3: ch341-uart converter now attached to ttyUSB0
    [  546.512021] usb 1-4: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB1
    

    If it’s an Arduino-style board (CDC ACM), it may show up as ttyACM:

    [  662.219471] cdc_acm 1-2:1.0: ttyACM0: USB ACM device
    

    You know what? That little hint—FTDI vs CH340 vs ACM—saves time.


    The stable names that don’t move around

    ttyUSB0 can change when you replug. That bit me while flashing a robot car brain in my garage. So I use the by-id path. It stays steady.

    ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/
    

    Here’s what I got with an FTDI and a CH340:

    usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AH06XYZ1-if00-port0 -> ../../ttyUSB1
    usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0 -> ../../ttyUSB0
    

    I now connect with the by-id link. No guessing:

    screen /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AH06XYZ1-if00-port0 115200
    

    If I need more info about a port, this helps a ton:

    udevadm info -a -n /dev/ttyUSB0 | egrep '{idVendor}|{idProduct}|serial'
    

    Sample bits I saw:

    ATTRS{idVendor}=="1a86"
    ATTRS{idProduct}=="7523"
    ATTRS{serial}=="CH340-ABC123"
    

    Live watch while plugging things in

    When I’m swapping cables fast, I keep a live feed running:

    sudo udevadm monitor --udev --property
    

    And I plug the adapter. I see lines like:

    UDEV  [1062.123456] ID_VENDOR_ID=0403
    UDEV  [1062.123456] ID_MODEL_ID=6001
    UDEV  [1062.123456] DEVNAME=/dev/ttyUSB1
    

    It’s like a tiny control tower. I plug, I read, I move on.


    Can I talk to the device? Let’s open it.

    I’ve tried a lot here. Some tools felt comfy; some… not so much.

    • screen: always there, a bit clunky
    • tio: fast, simple shortcuts, my current favorite
    • minicom: old but solid, needs setup
    • picocom: light, no fuss
    • GtkTerm/CuteCom: GUI, nice for quick checks

    I also tried out SerialTool for a quick GUI that speaks serial, TCP, and UDP alike—its feature rundown in this LinuxLinks overview convinced me to give it a spin.

    Let me explain how I actually use them.

    screen (works almost everywhere)

    screen /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AH06XYZ1-if00-port0 115200
    

    To quit: Ctrl-A then K (or Ctrl-A then ). It’s not friendly, but it never leaves me hanging.

    tio (my daily driver now)

    tio -b 115200 /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0
    

    Quit with Ctrl-T then Q. It shows port speed, reconnects clean, and handles weird resets better for me. On Fedora 39, it felt snappy even with noisy boot logs.

    minicom (the “once it’s set, it’s fine” tool)

    First time, set the port and speed:

    sudo minicom -s
    

    Then start:

    minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 9600
    

    It’s chatty, but steady. I used it to talk to a GPS puck at 9600, and it never froze.

    A barebones test (no extra tools)

    Sometimes I go simple:

    stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 115200 -echo -icrnl
    cat /dev/ttyUSB0
    

    Open another terminal to send:

    echo "test" > /dev/ttyUSB0
    

    It’s basic, but it proves the link.


    Real log: router console at 115200

    Hooked to a little OpenWrt router with an FTDI:

    tio -b 115200 /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AH06XYZ1-if00-port0
    

    What I saw:

    U-Boot 2022.07
    CPU:   MediaTek MT7621
    Hit any key to stop autoboot:  2
    

    I tapped a key, dropped to the boot menu, and fixed a bad env var. Clean save. Deep breath.

    Need to confirm the network path once the device’s boot sequence is sorted? I lean on mtr for that, and I explain why it beats a simple ping in MTR on Linux – My Honest Take from the Terminal.


    The permission gotcha that ate my afternoon

    If you see “Permission denied,” it’s likely the dialout group. I forgot this on my Pi after an update.

    Check your groups:

    groups
    

    If you don’t see dialout, add it:

    sudo usermod -aG dialout $USER
    newgrp dialout
    

    Log out and back in if it still acts weird. Then try your port again.


    When things go wrong (and they will)

    I keep these quick checks handy.

    • Is the kernel module loaded?
    lsmod | egrep 'ftdi_sio|ch341|cp210x|pl2303'
    
    • Did the kernel log complain?
    dmesg | tail -n 30
    

    I’ve hit this with a flaky PL2303 clone:

    pl2303 ttyUSB2: usb_serial_generic_read_bulk_callback - urb stopped: -32
    

    That adapter went in the “bad cable” jar. A new one fixed it. Harsh, but fair.

    • Is it even a serial thing?
    lsusb
    

    I look for vendor IDs I know:

    • FTDI: 0403:6001
    • CH340: 1a86:7523
    • CP210x: 10c4:ea60
    • PL2303: 067b:2303

    If it’s not there, it might be power. I had a board that needed a powered hub in winter, when my desk got cold. Not kidding.


    Make your own stable name (like “arduino_nano”)

    I like friendly names. So I add a udev rule. This is what I used for a Nano with a CH340:

    Create a file:

    sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/99-serial-friendly.rules
    

    Add:

    SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{idVendor}=="1a86", ATTRS{idProduct}=="7523", SYMLINK+="arduino_nano"
    

    Reload and replug:

    sudo udevadm control --reload
    sudo udevadm trigger
    

    Now I can do:

    “`
    tio –

  • I tested NDS emulators on Linux. Here’s what actually worked.

    You know what? I thought this would be hard. Two screens, touch, a mic… on Linux? But it wasn’t bad. I tried melonDS, DeSmuME, and a RetroArch core. I played real games. I fixed real hiccups. And I have thoughts.

    (For an expanded, step-by-step breakdown—including terminal commands and screenshots—my full companion piece is live at I tested NDS emulators on Linux. Here’s what actually worked.)

    What’s in this review

    • My setup (laptop and distro)
    • melonDS: fast, clean, picky about BIOS
    • DeSmuME: flexible, older, but easy
    • RetroArch core: pretty, awkward touch
    • Game-by-game notes
    • Quick tips that saved me

    My setup (so you can compare)

    • Laptop: ThinkPad T480s
    • CPU/GPU: Intel i5, integrated graphics
    • Distro: Ubuntu 24.04
    • Input: mouse, touchpad, a cheap USB mic
    • Controller: 8BitDo SN30 (Bluetooth)

    Nothing fancy. No eGPU. No black magic.
    If you’re curious about pushing a modest ThinkPad even further for emulation, the tuning guides at Freedom Penguin are fantastic.
    For a broader survey that covers everything from NES to PlayStation 2 on the penguin, see my overview, My Hands-On Take: Video Game Emulators on Linux.


    melonDS — my daily driver

    Here’s the thing. melonDS feels like a real DS. It’s fast and clean. But it wants a real BIOS and firmware dump. That part took me a night to sort.

    How I installed it:

    • I used the Flatpak build. The Ubuntu repo was old.
    • I dumped BIOS and firmware from my DS Lite. I used an old R4 cart and fwtool. It felt like a time warp, but it worked.

    How I set it up:

    • Video: OpenGL, integer scale, vsync on.
    • Touch: mouse left-click = stylus.
    • Mic: set to my USB mic.
    • Layout: top screen large, bottom screen small, stacked.

    And then I played.

    Real game notes on melonDS

    • Pokémon Platinum: a smooth 60 fps. Menus felt snappy. I used speed-up on long routes. No weird sound pops.
    • The World Ends With You: touch swipes were crisp. I mapped a mouse side button to “L” for quick partner skills. No missed taps.
    • Zelda: Phantom Hourglass: mapping and notes felt fine with the mouse. The mic worked for the candle puzzle. I did not have to “fake blow.”
    • Mario Kart DS: 60 fps in races. I tested local multiplayer with two melonDS windows. It linked after I set “bind to adapter.” It took two tries, but then it held steady. (If you’re curious how Linux fares when you push heavier online titles instead of local wireless, check out I Play MMORPGs on Linux — Here’s How It Really Goes.)
    • Nintendogs: the mic picked up my voice. I had to tweak mic gain in Linux. My dog learned “sit” on the second try. Cute, but loud.

    What I liked:

    • Fast. Most games hit full speed.
    • Real mic input. No silly noise hacks needed.
    • Clean UI. Layout controls make sense.
    • Local wireless can work. It’s fussy, but real.

    What bugged me:

    • Needs BIOS/firmware, or some games complain.
    • Some repo builds are stale. Flatpak saved me.
    • If I drag the window too big, the bottom screen looks soft.

    DeSmuME — my steady fallback

    DeSmuME is friendly. It runs out of the box. No BIOS needed for most games. It feels old, but in a good way. Like a trusty wrench.

    Install:

    • I grabbed the package from apt. Easy. The UI looks dated, but it’s clear.

    Setup:

    • 3D driver: I kept the software renderer. OpenGL was hit or miss for me.
    • Sound: synchronous, low latency.
    • Mic: I mapped a key to “mic noise.” Handy for games that just want air.

    Real game notes on DeSmuME

    • New Super Mario Bros.: perfect speed. I used a CRT shader. It looked warm and nice.
    • Pokémon HeartGold: fine in towns, slight dips in full 3D spots. The slowdowns were tiny.
    • Elite Beat Agents: timing felt okay at 1x scale. At 2x, input lag ticked up. I turned off compositing, and it got better.
    • Professor Layton: no glitches. Save states worked. I solved puzzles in bed, like a gremlin.

    What I liked:

    • Works without BIOS.
    • Cheaty stuff is simple. Save states, speed, cheats.
    • Good for 2D-heavy games.

    What bugged me:

    • 3D can stutter unless you tweak a lot.
    • Touch feels a bit “floaty” compared to melonDS.
    • The UI is busy. You get used to it, though.

    RetroArch + melonDS core — pretty, but fiddly

    I love RetroArch for shaders and hotkeys. The melonDS core is solid. But the touchscreen overlay felt off. The mouse mapped fine, yet the overlay buttons got in the way.

    What worked:

    • Shaders like xBR and Simple Scanlines make sprites pop.
    • Fast, same as stand-alone.

    What didn’t:

    • Touch overlays clutter the lower screen.
    • Setting per-game layouts got annoying.

    I still use it on a TV with a controller. For touch-heavy games, I go back to stand-alone.

    Sometimes, though, you’ll shut down the emulator and crave a different kind of “multiplayer.” If you’re looking for an adult detour, the detailed roundup of hookup platforms at Best Backpage Replacement Sites to Fuck Tonight runs through which services still have active users, what they cost, and the safety steps you should take before meeting up—handy knowledge when you want real-world action instead of virtual battles. And if your next LAN party or retro meetup takes you through North Dakota, you can scope the scene ahead of time at Backpage alternatives in Dickinson, where local posts lay out prices, verification steps, and which hotels stay friendly to late-night visits.


    The small stuff that made a big difference

    • Controller mapping: I set Y = run, B = action, L/R on back buttons. Feels like a real DS hold.
    • Mouse settings: I turned off “enhanced pointer precision” in Linux. Touch got more accurate.
    • Mic gain: set it in your system, not just in the emulator. Nintendogs heard me better after that.
    • Limits: set frame limit to 60. Speed-up is nice for grind, but it breaks rhythm games.
    • Files: keep BIOS, firmware, and saves in one folder. I named it “nds-core.” Future me thanked me.

    Quick picks: which one should you use?

    • Most users: melonDS. It’s fast and true to hardware.
    • Old laptop or 2D games: DeSmuME is simple and solid.
    • TV play with shaders: RetroArch core (melonDS), but skip touch-heavy games.

    Real talk: what annoyed me

    • BIOS dumping is not “one-click.” I had to dust off my R4.
    • Screen sizes can look weird. The DS is two small screens. On a big monitor, one screen always feels too big or too tiny.
    • Rhythm games need careful settings. A tiny bit of lag ruins the song. I had to disable desktop effects to fix that.

    Final take

    I keep both emulators installed. melonDS is my main pick. DeSmuME saves the day when a game acts up or I want quick cheats. RetroArch is pretty, but I use it less for DS.

    If you want one clean setup on Linux, do this:

    • Install melonDS (Flatpak if you can).
    • Dump BIOS/firmware from a real DS once.
    • Map mouse to stylus, set vsync, and enjoy.

    Honestly, I thought touch and mic would be a pain. But once I set it up, it felt natural. Pokémon felt like Pokémon. Zelda felt like Zelda. And when Nintendogs barked back at me, I laughed. That’s the magic I wanted—and I got it.